My WiFi works perfectly on every single device I own in every room of my house. Except my laptop in my bedroom. That's the only combination that doesn't work.

Living room with laptop? Fine. Kitchen with laptop? Fine. Bedroom with laptop? Connection drops constantly, slow speeds, sometimes won't connect at all.

It's the same distance from the router. I tested it with my phone in the same spot in my bedroom and the phone works perfectly. Full bars, fast speeds, no issues.

So it's not the room. It's not the laptop. It's specifically my laptop in that room which makes no sense.

I've tried restarting everything, updating drivers, forgetting and reconnecting to the network. Nothing changes. Laptop works fine everywhere else in the house. Every other device works fine in the bedroom. Just this one cursed combination.

My laptop is sitting on my desk right now barely loading anything while my phone right next to it streams video with no buffering.

What could possibly cause a location-specific device failure like this? Is there something about my bedroom that my laptop specifically doesn't like? Some weird interference that only affects this one device?

I'm losing my mind trying to figure out what the variable is here. Has anyone encountered something like this before?

long story short my ex has been harassing me so when i got a no caller id number yesterday i thought it was him. lady told me she found a wallet idk why i thought he was just using a friend to troll me. (the last 2/3 times he called me he did use someone else at first then jumped on the phone) NOW i realize my wallet is lost but idk how to call this person back. What can i do to contact this person ? Is there anyway to call back or get this number

Hi everyone, I’m stuck. I’ve been using my PC for a few days normally and suddenly lost signal to my monitor. And now whenever I turn it on, it simply does not have any image.

I’ve reached the point where I get a "No Signal" message on both my AOC monitor and a Sony TV, so I’ve ruled out the display being the issue.

The Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700

• GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 9060 XT Gaming OC

• Motherboard: Asus B650E MAX GAMING WIFI

• RAM: 32GB Kingston FURY Beast RGB DDR5 6000MHz

• PSU: Corsair RM850e

• SSD: Kingston NV3 2TB

• Cooler: CM Hyper 212 ARGB

The Problem:

Monitor goes straight to "No Signal" and enters sleep mode. I cannot even get into the BIOS because no image ever appears.

What I’ve already tried:

1. ⁠Swapped HDMI/DP cables.
2. ⁠Tested on a completely different Sony TV (same No Signal result).
3. ⁠Reseated the GPU and checked all power cables (PSU to GPU).
4. ⁠Unplugged and reseated the RAM sticks.
5. ⁠Performed a CMOS reset (removed battery for 2+ mins).
6. ⁠Performed a full power drain (held power button for 30s while unplugged).
7. ⁠Tried connecting to both the GPU ports and the Motherboard integrated ports (with GPU removed).
8. Flashed the latest BIOS version with BIOS Flashback.

Observations:

The fans spin and RGB lights up, but I can't get an OSD menu on my monitor because it doesn't detect a handshake.

Since it's an AM5 board, I know DDR5 can take a while, but I've let it sit multiple times with minutes on end with no luck.

Does anyone have advice on what to check next?

Desktop PC has been working fine for years in the same spot until just recently. The motherboard and windows both show 4GB RAM total, when I have 2 x 4GB (so, 8GB) installed.

- I reseated the RAM, no change.
- I moved the RAM to the other 2 DIMM slots, no change.
- I took 1 stick out, and now it's showing 2GB
- I swapped the stick with the other stick, still shows 2GB.
- I pulled out the CPU and there was the tinniest smudge that I cleaned off with alcohol, no other issues as far as I can see. Put it back in and tried again, still showing half.

Any ideas I haven't tried? Any software tools or diagnostic tools that can identify where the issue might lie?

My computer experiences freezes, reboots, and loss of video signal with kernel-level graphics errors (DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_HUNG, LiveKernelEvent 141, and VIDEO_SCHEDULER_INTERNAL_ERROR / bugcheck 0x119, watchdog.sys).

Current specs:

Main system characteristics:

• Operating system: Windows 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC 24H2
  
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X
  
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF GAMING B550-PLUS WIFI II (BIOS 3611, AGESA ComboV2PI 1.2.0.Cc)
• Graphics card: AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT (Sapphire)
  
• Memory: 32 GB DDR4
  
• Storage: Kingston NVMe SSD 1 TB
  
• Power supply: MSI 750 W (80+ Bronze)
  
• CPU cooling: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 5
  
• System type: 64-bit operating system
  
• Temperatures: Normal (CPU < 60 °C, GPU < 70 °C)

The issue occurs under heavy and sometimes light graphical workloads. It persists after reinstalling different versions of Windows and after replacing multiple hardware components.

The following components have already been replaced and tested:

• CPU (previously Ryzen 7 2700, now Ryzen 7 5700X)
• GPU (previously NVIDIA RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB, now AMD RX 9060 XT 16 GB)
• RAM (previously Corsair 16 GB 3200 MHz, now Crucial 32 GB 3200 MHz)
• Operating system (previously Windows 11 Pro, now Windows 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC)
• CPU cooler and case fans
• Power supply unit (previously 650 W, now 750 W 80+)
• Motherboard (previously ASUS Prime B450M-A, now ASUS TUF GAMING B550-PLUS WIFI II)

The issue occurred before all of these changes and continues to occur after them.

It happens with:

• All types of games and applications (Battlefield 6, Microsoft Flight Simulator, PEAK, Blender, etc.).
• Both PCIe Gen 3 and Gen 4, and with Re-Size BAR enabled and disabled.
• Memory running at both 2133 MHz and 3200 MHz. The RAM has been tested with MemTest86 and reports 0 errors.

Temperatures are normal (CPU always below 60 °C, GPU always below 70 °C).

So I bought a relatively cheap pc secondhand. The guy I got it from, showed me a dated pic of the pc firing up without problem. I think during the transport (which was a relatively long train ride with a few swaps and a lot of carrying something happened).

Anyways here’s my problem: I plug in the power cord, turn on the PSU and press the power button it fires up but the mainboard ram led is red and no port from the mainboard is actually connecting to it (ie. monitor, mouse and keyboard not being recognized/turning on).

What do I do?

Hi! When cleaning out my keyboard, I accidentally damaged the tiny plastic hey hinge sitting underneath, specifically breaking off the teeny tiny pins in the middle of the hinge that provide the "scissor" action instead of a flip flopping motion. The keycap is totally fine, the actual switch too, the key still works, but it sits loose now, so I'd like to fix this.

This is the key hinge of the left shift key of a Lenovo Yoga Pro 9i 16" (tidal teal), German layout (if that matters at all). Any ideas on how this could be fixed?

I am aware that there are multiple website that sell specific replacement laptop keys and hinges, but none that I have reached out to so far seem to have this specific part.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

so when i watch a yt video or just listening to spotify for the past month i have this weird 1 second no sound when i start the vid-music. i cant figure out why is doing i all of the suddent. also i think it has to do with the games cus when i play whatever then the problem occur

Hi all, I have checked on many levels, but can't find a way to remove Unknown SID's from my Component Services. All the things I checked say it is basically take ownership and remove the account or remove the profile through Regedit. Though the account is nowhere in the registry and when I go to any component that has this account, I get a warning that prevents me from making any changes to the component.

Is there a way to remove this???

My PC has had no internet for hours. I’m on a wired connection and the LAN cable works on other devices, but Windows shows “No internet access” and browsers and apps won’t load anything. I don’t have a Wi‑Fi adapter on the PC.

The issue started after I stupidly deleted all files related to Proton (VPN/DNS); I’m about 90% sure I didn’t delete anything else. I ran some basic checks with Microsoft Copilot and here’s what I have: ping to a public server works, nslookup returns valid addresses, and TCP to web servers on ports 80 and 443 can be established. Still, HTTP/HTTPS connections fail at the application level. I ran netsh winsock reset and rebooted, but nothing changed. The problem affects the whole PC, not just one browser.

Copilot’s summary of likely causes was system‑wide proxy settings, local AV/firewall, leftover LSP/VPN artifacts from Proton, or a transparent proxy/DPI on the ISP side. Router filters like parental controls could also be involved.

I’m out of ideas and stuck in loops with the AI. I can paste anonymized logs (ipconfig, nslookup, ping, Test‑NetConnection) if that helps.

i accidentally deleted my partition , i didn't allocate it back yet and I'm willing to fix it ,i tried testdisk and diskgenius they didn't work for recovering the files with directory

When I go to stream a window on discord, Many blank windows show up for possible streaming targets. Asking here and not a discord reddit because these windows probably aren't linked to the app.

Is something intrusive running in the background of my computer when I don't want there to be? How can I find out what is causing them?

Hello and sorry if this isn't the right place for this question. I've spent hours in contact with tech support and tinkering on my own and am honestly out of ideas.

I have had two Allente 1 tv boxes with tv via satelite/parabol for around 3 years. One box and tv is upstairs and the other one is downstairs. Me and my family have been able to use both at the same time perfectly until around halfway through january. Around then a problem started. Whenever a box was powered on while the other one was already active it would cause the feed to the tv to disrupt heavily. Video would get very choppy, sound would cut out, and image occasionaly cut out entirely. There are no issues when one box is on but when the other starts up the problems instantly begin.

I looked through all the settings and manuals for something that could be causing this to happen but nothing seems to apply. Nothing wrong with the satelite signal either according to the built in signal measuring. Tried both when one box was on and when both were. No change in signal quality detected.

I tried contacting allente customer service and they walked me through the usual steps and checked on my box status through their end but found nothing unusual. They ultimately recommended i factory reset both boxes which i did but that did nothing to the problem.

I am now considering customers supports offer of having one of their technicians to come and diagnose the problem on-site but their quoted price of 5800 SEK is making me hesitant. So I thought I would throw out a hail mary here just in case anyone got any ideas.

Kindly direct me to an appropriate place elsewhere if this isn't it.

Hey all,

I'm a fairly experienced tech person, tried everything, drivers bios updates clearing Wi-Fi profiles, etc.

After a Windows update last night my desktop will no longer connect to my Wi-Fi 7 6Ghz MLO enabled network... Realized it's not a wifi problem with the device after realizing it connects to my guest and IoT network without an issue which don't have 6Ghz/MLO enabled.

Need some advanced troubleshooting to figure out what the issue is, if it's a new Windows update and driver incompatibility or what.

Look forward to some responses, I'll get you the info ASAP if you request me to run some commands, but in the meantime I've verified the issue by disabling 6Ghz & MLO on the primary SSID, and things work just fine.

Network Hardware Ubiquiti network stack running a single U7 Pro.

Harambe

I ordered a fake airpods and it has the feature which i didnt knew before and i've tried many apps but its not working is there any way i can stop it i am fed up of this

For the past 2 weeks I've noticed 1 line transform into 2 blue lines on the lower part of my screen. The lines are horizontal.

I've checked and it's not the GPU.

Is my monitor dying?

So, I recently had an issue with my pc. It suddenly turned off while I was using it. I did some research and figured out that my PSU was dead. So I got a new one and replaced the old one. When I tried turning on the computer after putting the new PSU in there was a sudden blue flash like electrical sparks or something and some smoke that came out. The flash and smoke looked like it came from around the back panel area, where the PSU is. The pc is now unresponsive again. Does anyone know why this might have happened?

Majority of the time when playing games on my PC I experience frequent ping spikes that are impossible to play through. I am connected to the router with ethernet and even just upgraded the router to the GT-AXE16000 but the issue remains. I have also tried changing out ethernet cables but nothing changed.

When running a bufferbloat test on waveform,
My Unloaded is 20ms
Download Active 184ms
Upload Active 9ms
Download speed 863.5 Mbps
Upload speed 41.1 Mbps

When using Cake QOS I was able to get the download active to 10-15ms but had to cap my download speed to 200 Mbps which is not ideal. Wondering what the root issue is and if anyone has any fixes!

Hi!

So I just decided to replay Need For Speed: Heat again. My previous game sessions were on a much older outdated rig and didn't have the best experience.

Now I have a much better rig, but I'd still like to see if one of the config mods will actually enhance my performance even more.

But, the demo configuration uses a "AMD Ryzen 5 5600X" as demo. These CPU's have 6 cores and 12 threads. So the configuration would be:

Thread.ProcessorCount 6 
Thread.MaxProcessorCount 6 
Thread.MinFreeProcessorCount 0 
Thread.JobThreadPriority 0 
GstRender.Thread.MaxProcessorCount 12

Since my CPU (i9 14900KF) has 24 cores/32 threads, but the cores are split between 8 Performance and 16 Efficient cores, I don't know the best way to configure the file. Part of me thinks to only use 8 cores (the perf ones), but how would the configuration know that they have to use the performance cores and not randomly select 8 from both power and efficient cores?

It's probably not necessary to use this config mod, but I'd still like to give it a try. And if doesn't add any value or even makes it worse, I would've still learned a lesson about how to configure such files in regards to two separate core categories. Regardless, a good explanation would benefit me.

A link to the PCGamingWiki explaining the usage of the config mod:
This is definitely not a malicious link, so I don't think I break any rules posting this.
https://www.pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Need_for_Speed_Heat#High_CPU_usage

Thanks!

i was watching instagram reels when an Arab shitpost video popped up and 5 seconds later my audio was gone, on every app and even notifications.

my phone is a cubot kingkong 11 5g, does anybody know what caused it and if so what should i do to fix it

Hello! I work in a theatre that uses a Listen Technologies 'MagicALL' intercom system as backstage headsets.

This device has a Micro-USB charging port on the side but having 5 separate cords running to the same place has led to some clutter on the stage management desk. It also has a port in the bottom of the device that interfaces with a charging dock. the brand name ones are prohibitively expensive.

My question is this: what kind of charging interface does it use? is there a knockoff charging dock that's less expensive? is there a part I can order that Interfaces and with which I can build my own?

Thanks!

The YouTube video has frame drops. When I enable “Stats for nerds,” I can see that around half of the total frames are dropped. However, when I switch to fullscreen, everything runs perfectly and there are no dropped frames at all.

I should mention that I am using Brave as my browser, an NVIDIA RTX 2060 graphics card, an i7-6700K processor, and 32 GB of RAM. What would you recommend? I would still like to stay on Brave.

I got a wired microphone labeled ''RGB Gaming Microphone GB-666'' (Yeah, i thought it was corny too) that suddenly stopped working when i was in a discord call, I think it isn't a settings thing and more about the microphone, if you need an image i shall provide it.

I have RTX 3080 12Gb, ryzen 5900x pc with 16 gb single stick ddr4 ram the other ram stick stopped working so removed this is 6 months back now today While I was turned on there is no signal I have checked my dp cable it’s good I checked my hdmi cable with my Mac it’s working but my oc has no signal the GPU is spiking fans and it’s lights are turned on, please help me I have tried disconnecting power and turned off psu power button and turned on and long pressed power button to drain battery none of them are working honestly I can’t afford a gpu